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It’s a bit hard to see in the photos what is actually going on, photographing glossy black plastic isn’t easy… Looks like large part of the print has some kind of patterning to it, kind of as if the nozzle is vibrating a lot. Maybe not relevant to the problem you’re having, just thought it looked strange.

Have you calibrated filament flow rate? I can’t say for sure from the photo, but I think there are some things that look like they could be over-extruded

*Finnish forest

It’s Palantir (or maybe it was just of one of the founders?) that bought a large chunk of land in Sweden, but to my knowledge they haven’t made their plans for what to do with public

The first speech recognition was introduced 1952, while AI was established as a field of research in 1956, so you are technically correct :) Back when I studied computer science at university, both speech and image recognition was considered AI, but I assume you’re thinking about more recent AI technologies. According to the Computer History Museum it was only using deep neural networks that computers finally could match the accuracy of a human, so pre-AI tools were definitely much less accurate.

Do that, and I’ll check it if I can find anything strange in it.

Are you saying what we’re seeing in the photo is supposed to be the same layer? Can you upload the exact gcode file you were using when printing, if you haven’t solved it since posting this?

Cheap nozzles from Amazon etc. can also have the wrong diameter, or just be generally poorly machined. Perhaps not relevant for OP’s case, but could be useful to know when helping people debug printing issues.

Thinking that I could do my own research using Google and find a good printer (which I have always been able to do when purchasing electronics in the past), but not realizing how widespread fake reviews had become, and that most youtubers produce heavily biased reviews to stay on good terms with the manufacturers who are sending them free stuff.

If you look at the edge above the lifted corner, isn’t that supposed to be straight, or are the walls not meant to be flat?

My guess is that you need to print slower and/or increase nozzle temp. If the filament isn’t properly melted that also leaves tension in the material, which can cause corners to be pulled off the bed. I.e. cooling issues is not the only thing that can cause warping. What are your current slicer settings? I assume your high-flow nozzle isn’t PTFE-lined, so printing hotter should be safe.

Those kind of uneven layers can also be caused by a mechanical issue on the vertical axis, but I don’t think that would increase the risk of warping.

The gitlab repo appears to be a dump of random small .c programs and different .tar.gz archives. The download link OP provided is the source.

If your printer is fully stock, replacing the bed springs either with silicone spacers or stiffer springs can be a good value upgrade. Keeps the bed from unleveling itself while printing, and IMO it also makes the initial adjustment a tiny bit easier. A bed probe is an immense quality of life improvement though, if you can afford to spend a little more money, since it both compensates for less-than-perfect bed leveling and also for any unevenness in the bed surface.

On the subject of upgrades, stay away from the “all-metal extruder” which used to be popular on Amazon etc. The stock Ender 3/v2 extruder is poorly designed and breaks easily. The metal version of it doesn’t break, but it’s still has the same bad design. If you’re going to invest money in a new extruder there are better options.

You mean with a closed enclosure? Maybe try printing with it open then, PLA generally want as much cooling as you can muster. I don’t have an enclosure myself, but I’ve heard that some people who do have to print with their doors open when using PLA.

Also does it print straight, and then later start bulging while its printing other layers on top? Or did it print the bulge that way?

update: I zoomed in closer on your other photo, and that choppy edge + horizontal lines are also indications that something is wrong. My first guess(es) would be either an extrusion issues (mis-calibrated extruder/slider, trying to print too fast, poorly machined nozzle…) something mechanical (frame isn’t properly assembled, loose roller wheel, hotend isn’t fully screwed to the carriage…).

Btw. I saw you wrote that you have a 0.2mm nozzle. Just to be sure, you did put that into your slicer, right? The default settings are probably 0.4mm nozzle. Also what line width and layer height are you using in the slicer settings?

Right now, around 50% RH indoors. I leave my spools of PLA on the printer for months or even years, and I’ve never had any humidity issues. If I were to speculate, my guess would be differences in additives being the main reason that only some people need to dry their PLA filament.

First of all, flash the firmware and reset eeprom on your found printers. Previous owners might have disabled safety features.

Common e3v2 problems: frame not assembled with square angles. Invisible crack in the extruder arm. Flat spot on wheel. Gantry sag. Bed unleveling itself over time. Bed not flat (not an issue if you’re getting a probe)

as much as I like this idea, I assume it would also magnify the punishment if you get caught.

Creality made good printers in the beginning, i.e. original Ender and Ender Pro. They used high quality components and offered good value for money compared to what else what available at that time. However, when they had cornered a large part of the market and got known as the brand that made the best beginner printers, things started going downhill. They switched from Meanwell power supplies etc. to cheap noname components, quality control seemingly became non-existent, and they released several poorly designed overpriced printers (E.g. the E3v2 - my first printer - and everything with “max” in the name).

I think there’s a combination of different reasons for why there always have been so many people who believe that Creality make good printers:

1. People who have bought their Ender 3/Pro before 2020 actually have good printers, and give them honest praise on forums.
2. Fake reviews on the internet, which hype up the product since their only goal is for you to click their amazon affiliate link and buy it.
3. Creality paying content creators for positive reviews, including several well known and otherwise respected within the community.
4. Buyers who got lucky with the QC and don’t own any other printers to compare with, might think their printers are the best.
5. Buyers who are now happy with their Ender after having spent €100+ on “upgrades” and/or days of troubleshooting the printer. I’ve even seen a guy insist that an Ender is a better first printer than a cheaper more reliable alternative, because the 20 hours he spent on his Ender to get a decent print out of it gave him “an invaluable learning experience”.
6. And I’ve also seen people who haven’t yet bought any printer claim that Enders are the best beginner printers, just because they’ve read that statement so many times they’ve come to accept it as a fact, and now they’re “helping” others looking for a first printer by answering their questions.

I think my E3v2 is good now, but I’ve replaced the hotend, extruder and part cooling fans. I’ve added a second Z lead screw to fix gantry sag, and I found a manufacturing error where the X belt tensioner wasn’t straight because tightening the screw into the aluminium extrusion bent the plastic (difficult to find, but luckily easy to fix with a metal shim). I’ve replaced the firmware with Klipper, controlled by a Raspberry Pi. And I’ve probably spent at least 50 hours just trying to fix and improve the printer, which I didn’t mind btw, but I think most would prefer a printer which just works out of the box.

In retrospect, I wish I had joined some 3d printing discords and talked to experienced users before deciding on which printer to buy, and not relied so much on google, websites and random comments.