I’ve been working on a new ereader case platform and wanted to find a way to print bigger than the max volume, and have it extremely durable is was the result.

Need to do some more work with the cover but overall I am very happy with how this turned out.

EDIT: Forgot to mention, the clear material is TPU, and the Purple material is PETG. The holes are for Threaded inserts.

    • the16bitgamer@programming.devOP
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      2 hours ago

      I have an earlier post here going over it. But this 1 print is 3 separate prints. I first print the Spine, which has alignment groves. Then I remove it from the print surface and print the back. The print will stop after the first layer so I can add in the spine which is held down with magnets. The I resume. This will print the next layer ontop of the Spine, which melts it in and creates a solid connection, no weaker than a normal TPU print. I then remove it and do the same to the cover.

    • dual_sport_dork 🐧🗡️@lemmy.world
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      2 hours ago

      I dunno how OP did it but you can override your machine’s normal travel limit parameters in your slicer settings. Often the nozzle can physically travel further than the bounds of the build plate and is actually limited by hitting its rail endstops (or limit switches!) or striking some other part of your machine.

      My Qidi can position the nozzle about 20mm beyond all four sides of the plate before it hits anything, but on the left and right sides it needs to be above z height 10mm or so to clear the Z axis gantries, and at the front and rear it’s just empty space. So you can’t print on the bed in that area because there is no bed. But if your object were shaped as such you could put overhangs out there in no man’s land. It would be risky, perhaps, but you could.

      • the16bitgamer@programming.devOP
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        2 hours ago

        Neat, but this print is larger than the total print area. TPU retains it’s heat, allowing you to print multiple separate parts together so long as you can align it properly.